Calistoga, CA is the closest I have ever been to heaven on earth. I think I should sell all of my possessions (except for my bicycles), move out there and then figure out how I am going to afford to stay once I get there ...
I'm not a wine drinker, so vacationing in Napa Valley, California never before held any particular appeal to me. I travelled to Calistoga to attend a wedding. I arrived on Friday before dinner time, with the wedding scheduled for Saturday at 5 pm, and I planned departure to go visit my Dad in Pleasanton, CA for first thing Sunday morning.
On the 2-3 hour drive drive up through Napa Valley from Oakland airport, I heard advertisements for Napa's Bike To Work Week activities on the radio. Napa cyclists who log bike to work miles during Bike To Work Week are eligible to win prizes, including a bicycle. I wonder if we could make the same thing happen here as incentive to ride. I was impressed with the radio spots.
The first thing I saw on Main Street is the Calistoga Bike Shop. After checking in to my room at the Calistoga Spa Hot Springs, I walked to the shop. I noticed two tandems proudly displayed out front: a road tandem and a cruiser. My heart warmed at the neon "rentals" sign on the front window. Both tandems are available for rent, along with road bikes, mountain bikes, hybrids and beach cruisers. Experienced cyclists can come in to get advice in the form of a map or suggested routes, but perhaps you'd prefer the luxury of your own personally designed Cool Wine Tour, a bargain at $59 including bike rental, wine tasting, souvenir wine glass, and bottled water for your cycling adventure. Mike Costanzo, shop owner, also said he'd be willing to make arrangements with visitors to have bikes shipped via Sports Express (or another service) to the shop for use in Calistoga.
I asked to see the rental mountain bike, which turned out to be a blue Specialized FSR XC, a souped up version of the bike I bought for myself this past January. Same color too. I *thought* it was the bike President Bush rented when he visited Calistoga, but he had his own bike. Someone from his entourage rented it though! Zac put SPD pedals on for me, set the pressure in the shock for my weight, helped me get the seat adjusted and provided me with a flat change kit. Mike agreed I could bring the bike back at no charge if I couldn't get it into the compact rental car -- even after Zac spent 20 minutes getting me set up. They also asked me if I had a helmet. Getting the bike in the car turned out to be no problem. I was charged $50 for rental on the bike (though their website lists $60) -- and before you complain at the price, a less-nice version of this bike rents for $40 or $45 at Bicycle Sport Shop in Austin, TX where the cost of living is considerably less than in Calistoga, CA. For the fun I had, it was money well spent.
Before leaving the shop for the day, I asked Zac where I should eat dinner, and he pointed me towards a cute little bistro/cafe/pizzeria called Checkers where I had a tasty Greek Salad with poppy seed dressing and a basil ravioli dish with tomato cream sauce -- I had small portions of each, and the bill came to only $15, but keep in mind, I did not indulge in any wine with that.
Stir-crazy after a day spent on airplanes and in a rental car, I went for a walk, planning on locating the site for the wedding. Calistoga is a completely bicycle and pedestrian (and horse) friendly community. Lots of bike lanes and bike routes signs, quiet residential streets with lots of shade. I saw lots of bicyclists including a Mom and 3 girls out on bikes -- Mom was wearing a very fashionable Curious George jersey that I complimented as they went by.
My room at the Calistoga Spa Hot Springswas a studio with a queen bed, small kitchen and a bathroom with a stall shower. Included for my $130/ night was the use of their pool facilities: a wading pool for kids, an 80 foot, 80 degree lap pool, a 100 degree soaking pool, and a 104 degree jacuzzi pool reserved for adults. After my walk and before bed, I enjoyed the jacuzzi and the soaking pool, and it was fortunate I did, because I didn't end up having more time to enjoy them later. The pools would have been nice after my mountain bike ride.
Less expensive accomodations in the area include a nice looking camp ground at the Napa County Fairgrounds in Calistoga, walking distance from Main Street with the bike shop. This local campground had only RVs when I walked by, but I was told it will also accomodate tents and that there is a nice shower facility on the premises. Bothe-Napa State Park is a 4 miles South of Calistoga down California 29 with camping facilities and bicycle trails. If I hadn't found a bike to rent, I'd planned on going hiking in the State Park on Saturday.
The next morning, I started with breakfast at Cafe Sarafornia, where I enjoyed eggs, hash browns, toast and the decor:
I filled up my water bottles, gathered some snacks and headed for Las Posadas. I drove out on the Silverado Trail, a 2 lane 50-55 mph rural roadway with, to my astonishment, bike lanes on either side. Less to my astonishment were the vineyards on either side and the pretty hills. Part of my trip to Las Posadas was along the 60 mile road cycling route Zac recommended. Silverado Trail was pretty, but Deer Park Road was gorgeous ... I was squirming in the car seat with good vibes on the *drive* out to my bike ride.
I was to head from the parking area off to the left to enjoy the singletrack in The Maze, and the Midway trail also came highly recommended for its scenic views across the valley. I was warned not to do any long descents on the Lower Loop into the valley -- those routes were all longer than I was looking to do and the fun descending would be promptly followed by the difficult climbing I wished to avoid.
The trail was fantastic. On The Maze trails I'd climb up to Ridge road then bomb down the hill to pick another trail back up and then another down again. The climbing was not terrifically long or terribly difficult, though I did periodically get off the bike to walk on a steeper section or because I didn't think I could bounce up a good sized log while forcing the bike uphill. The downhills were sweet!
In the vicinity of the trail section on the Ridge Road called the Saddle, I found one hill I definitely had to push the bike up -- I'd estimate 15-25% grade. I wanted to attempt to ride down its bumpy self, and I did. At the Saddle there was another opportunity to push the bike up a steep hill for the pleasure of testing my skills in riding down it. Mmm-mmm-good! My water bottle was getting low, so I took the Mossy Rock Trail back toward the parking area, only to get disoriented as soon as I got off of Mossy Rock. With the help of two hikers, I got onto a section of trail any mountain biker would label "Whoop-de-doos" with a fence and state forest signs off to one side. This located me on my map, and I navigated back to the parking area.
I refilled my bottle and returned for more fun, traversing the Whoop-de-doos onto a viciously steep section of trail called The Serpent that was the location of my one fall -- while I was walking the bike down a steep and slippery section, I landed on my rumpus and slid about 5 feet. I descended some other sections of The Serpent riding the bike with my rear wheel locked and going altogether faster than I had intended. It was fun and not particularly scary. This took me onto the Midway with scenic views across the valley, and I made my way out to Inspiration Point (which was). I climbed (well... pushed the bike) up Gravel Hill then rode back on Mossy Rock trail where I *again* got slightly discombobulated before quickly reorienting myself and heading back to my car. I wish I could have stayed longer.
I returned the bike with a smile to Mike and Zac and headed back to Checkers for more Greek salad with poppy seed dressing. Unfortunately, I did not have enough time to enjoy the hot spring pools before heading to the wedding.
At the wedding, with my untrue story of renting President Bush's bike and the presence of several other bicycling guests, I enjoyed a great deal of favorable attention. I think I danced for 2 - 3 hours. I left exhausted at midnight envying the bride and groom who were still holding forth on the dance floor.
Waiting for my plane home, I checked out the Weekly Calistogan, finding an article on page 2 about the Grand April Fool, Peter Potrebic, who cycled 1,251 miles during the month of April in the April Fools Challenge competition and fundraiser organized by my friends at the Calistoga Bike Shop. This event raised $3,100 for the Calistoga Family Center, and involved dozens of riders who each cycled a minimum of 150 miles in April.
I checked out real estate prices. With starter homes around $550,000, I may not be able to afford to live in Calistoga ... yet. That'll give me something to work for.
I intend to go back next year for a longer trip. Anyone care to join me?
Calistoga Bike Shop 1318 Lincoln Avenue Calistoga, CA 94515 1-866-942-BIKE/707-942-9550
Calistoga Spa Hot Springs 1006 Washington Street Calistoga, CA 94515 707-942-6269
Checkers Restaurant 1414 Lincoln Ave Calistoga, CA 94515 707-942-9300/707-963-6044
Cafe Sarafornia 1413 Lincoln Avenue Calistoga, CA 94515 707-942-0555
Napa County Fairgrounds 1435 North Oak Street P.O. Box 344 Calistoga, CA 94515 707-942-5111
Bothe-Napa State Park 5 Miles north of St. Helena/4 miles south of Calistoga on Hwy 29/128 Latitude/Longitude 38.5376/-122.5788 707-942-4575